Over the past two decades, I’ve enjoyed some fishing trips that, for want of a better description, were dream trips, outings that offered great fishing with a good probability of trophy fish. And, if you like a great meal at the end of the day, we’ll offer some suggestions. But, the quality of the fishing comes first. With this in mind, I respectfully offer the following venues.
Dream Trip #1
Lake Sakakawea is high on my list. In fact, there isn’t a better current fishery on the Missouri River. It gets pressure but not so much as Lake Oahe, something I’d attribute to the lack of lodging facilities on the big North Dakota reservoir.
While Sakakawea offers great fishing for northern pike, Chinook salmon, and in some portions, for smallmouth bass, it’s clearly the walleye that captures the attention of most visiting anglers. I don’t think it’s on the same level it was in the 1970’s, at least for very big fish, but it’s pretty close. And the fishing should be pretty easy this year because water levels will be low. That’s a plus and minus. There will be fewer places for fish to hide but low water levels probably affected spawning for some species and will place stress on smelt and salmon.
Don’t overlook the pike. Chances are, you won’t be able to because there are so many in the lake, and bite-offs will be common. I can’t wait till fall because Mort Bank of Bismarck introduced me to the pike opportunities over the past two autumn seasons. But, that’s another story.
If you do nothing but go there and fish Chinook salmon, you won’t be disappointed. Sak is the only viable salmon fishery between the Great Lakes and the West Coast. I’ve always felt Sakakawea grew bigger salmon than Oahe, even when both were peaking, something I’d attribute to latitude and generally cooler water temperatures. I don’t sense the salmon are as strong as they once were, nor do I know why. I do remember that most of the salmon I caught in the early days often jumped, but it’s been more than a decade since I saw a king clear the water.
The lack of lodging on the big lake also means a lack of good restaurants. There’s a new steakhouse next to Dakota waters I’m anxious to try. Otherwise, bring a grill and your own steaks. (Editor's Note - It's the 1806 Steakhouse and we've tried it since, and can happily report the food is excellent)
Dream Trip #2
Chaquamegon Bay at Ashland, WI might be America’s best smallmouth bass fishery. At 12 hours, give or take an hour or two, it isn’t a bad drive from either Dakota. But you’d be hard pressed to find better smallmouth bass fishing anywhere. Oddly, this shallow, warm water bay, is part of Lake Superior, the coldest, deepest lake on Earth. In Chaquamegon though, you’ll rarely be fishing much deeper than about 6-feet. The sandcut area, one of the best spots, features a bottom strewn with logs. In nearby Kakagon Slough, you’ll fish shallow water stumps. In either location, you’ll find plenty of fish.
Several years ago, Paul Lepisto and myself traveled there to shoot a television show with Roger LaPenter. Roger operates a tackle store there and by noon, we’d shot a show pitching jigs tipped with twisters. So, we stowed the spinning gear and picked up flyrods. By 3:00 PM, we finished a show on flyrod smallies.
Paul, who operates the camera on our show, is a good angler but spends most of his time watching fishing through the Sony lens. Two shows shot and it was time for him to pick up a rod. While Roger and I cast Sneaky Pete poppers to stumps, Paul stayed in the back of the boat and pitched a 4-inch Power Worm. Roger and I would take a fish or two off each stump, Paul would let the worm fall vertically and he’d get three or four more.
The fish will average about 3 ½ pounds with a 4 or 5 almost a certainty, probably because for all practical purposes, this is a no-kill fishery. The last time I saw the regulations, you were allowed just one fish over 20-inches and then, only after July 1. That’s sensible and protects these great fish. You can expect 25 fish days here and the best way to assure fishing the right spots in the right way, book with Roger at his Angler’s All tackle shop.
And though you won’t find this in any Ashland, WI Chamber of Commerce publications, you can’t go wrong ordering pizza at any pizza place in town, chains excepted. One family owns all the independent pizza joints and they make the best I’ve tasted in the past couple of decades.
Dream Trip #3
As long as the focus is on smallmouth bass, there are a few emerging world-class fisheries in the glacial lakes region of northeast South Dakota. Base at Roy Lake Resort on the same lake. Fish Roy for a booming smallmouth population though they’ll run under 2 pounds for the most part. Drive 5 minutes east to Clear Lake, my choice for the best smallmouth fishery in the region. There, fish will average about 3 pounds with an occasional 4 or 5 pound fish. Head south another 15 minutes and fish Pickerel or Enemy Swim. They’re good fisheries that were hit pretty hard by ice fishing and too many fishermen who kept their smallies. But, more strict regulations now in place will protect these great fish. For food, you can’t go wrong at Jan Thame’s Roy Lake Resort. (Editor's Note - As of 2005, Roy has moved to the top as SD's best smallmouth lake. A solid 3 lb. average with occasional 4's and a few 5's over the course of a day)
Dream Trip #4
Lake Sharpe in central South Dakota is the most consistent walleye fishery on the Missouri River System. It fishes best for walleyes in the spring or fall and it’s hard to beat the mid-section from Joe Creek to North Bend. The fine fishing is due to stable water levels, and unless weather interferes, spawning is usually successful. As good as the walleye fishing is, it’s the smallmouths that have me excited. Over the past couple of years, Sharpe has shown signs that it can also be another potential world-class fishery. Most fish will average about 2 pounds but there are 3’s and 4’s. Give it another few years and it will rival any smallmouth fishery anywhere. Unless you’re camping, you’ll have to base at either Pierre or Fort Thompson because there are no resorts on this lake, however the state campground at West Bend is very nice. There are no restaurants on the lake but most people base in Pierre and you can’t go wrong with La Minestra or the Cattleman’s Club. (Ed's Note - Fishing pressure has hurt the walleye population in Sharp but the smallies are going great.)
Dream Trip #5
Several years ago, I cast a black woolly bugger on a #2 sink line and caught and released about a dozen brown trout that measured from 20 to 26-inches. That’s world class trout fishing. Shortly after landing my last brown, I was about to make a backcast when a giant rainbow grabbed my fly, cleared the water by 6 feet, then ran off my 90 feet of fly line and 100 yards of dacron backing. At that point, the fish snapped a 1X tippet. That’s 12 pound test tippet. I didn’t get a chance to measure that fish but I’m guessing it could well have exceeded 30-inches.
No, I wasn’t in New Zealand. In fact, I was less than 3 hours from the North Dakota border in southwestern Manitoba. No waters on the continent consistently grow bigger trout or produce better stillwater trout fishing than the fertile, small lakes in this area. The lake that produced those fine browns and the big rainbow was Silver Beach Lake, located just south of Riding Mountain Provincial Park But alas, that lake has succumbed to runoff and heavy algae and is no longer prime trout water. Yet, Spear Lake, just west of Russell, Manitoba, should be outstanding this year. I expect to see many 20+-inch fish with a good shot at rainbows in the 26-inch range. East Goose, right within the city limits of Roblin, just 30-minutes north of Russell on Hiway 83, also produces some giant rainbows and browns.
Manitoba fisheries biologist, Ken Kansas, has enlisted Canadian trout guru, Bob Sheedy, to assess other area lakes and the goal, with the help of nearby communities, is to develop about 25 prime trout fisheries Lee Brend, a Bismarck dentist who practices to support his fly fishing habit, was the one who talked me into trying southwestern Manitoba four years back, and since, I make two trips per year. The fishing is superb and 25 fish days are common. I generally go there twice annually, in early June and late September. After seeing the waterfowl migrations in that area and hearing the tales of the ease of land access from my friend, Dr. Vern Rosnoski, an avid waterfowler and Mayor of Russell, I may turn the late fall trip into a “cast & blast” affair. For the past two autumns, I’ve been amazed at the snow goose and Canada goose numbers in the area…and the lack of hunters. The Russell Inn in Russell is a rarity. It is a first class motel that serves great food.
Dream Trip #6
Devils Lake is one of the top walleye/northern pike fisheries in America. Last May, Boyd LaFluer and myself cast shallow-running crankbaits into a foot of water on a wave-buffeted shoreline and caught and released dozens of pike and walleyes in a single afternoon. Some of both species hit the 9-pound mark.
A few weeks earlier, Jason Mitchell and myself cast minnow-tipped jigs into a small patch of open water and caught walleyes from 3 to 9 pounds. And, back in March, I lowered a Genz Worm tipped with maggies into 40 feet of water, saw several red marks flash on my Vexilar, raised the jig to the highest one, felt the “thunk” and set the hook. A couple minutes later, a 3-12 white bass was soon flopping on the ice and will soon grace the wall of my office. And I haven’t even mentioned the yellow perch.
Devils Lake would be another superb place to plan a “cast & blast.” I doubt there’s another place on the continent that raised more ducks in recent years. In addition, there are Canadas, and even though the snow goose migration has been very late over the past few mild falls, when it happens, it’s spectacular.
This lake has grown from about 35,000 acres at the beginning of the 90’s and now sprawls over 145,000 acres. The fish are beginning to catch up to all of those surface acres of water.
For great food, the Ranch Supper Club has moved to the head of the pack. (Ed's Note - I often stay at Randy Frost's Great American Inn and his Paddlewheel Lounge serves a Steak & Stein, a 6 oz sirloin, potatoes and a big stein of beer for $7.99.)
Dream Trip #7
The Black Hills of South Dakota offer stream trout fishing that will compare to most of Montana’s blue ribbon waters. No, there’s no Big Horn or even a Madison or Smith River. Yet, Spearfish and Rapid Creeks offer challenging and sometimes highly technical fishing for wild browns, and even wild rainbows in Spearfish Creek.
Spring Creek, just outside Rapid City, also offers wild browns and stocked rainbows, and if there were a dependable water supply, it would probably be the best of the Black Hills streams. It certainly is the most fertile with the best hatches but too often, suffers from low water.
A well-traveled fly fishing writer described Spearfish and Rapid Creeks by noting, “If there were a fishing Olympics, this is surely where they’d hold it.”
I’ve fished Spearfish more than a few times and find the shallow, very clear water, a real challenge. Most times, the fish see you before you detect them. Thus, to score here, keep a low profile and cast accurately. Put a line over a fish here and they’re gone.
Rapid Creek doesn’t seem as difficult to fish, though the basin below Pactola Dam, which features very clear, slow moving water, is as challenging as any water I’ve fished. Below that, you’ll find several miles of public, walk-in fishing filled with trout that undergo regular education by some of the the best fly fishermen in the Black Hills.
There’s some excellent stillwater fishing too. Deerfield Lake, high in the Black Hills near Hill City, is a scenic mountain lake with brook trout, rainbows and some very big splake, a lake trout/brook trout hybrid. Castle Creek drains into Deerfield and there’s a big, shallow flat there with plenty of 10 to 14-inch rainbows that are very feisty. Look for splake on the sharp bluff drops and brookies in the deeper water near the dam. Most sub-surface flies will work on all species.
When you’re in the high country, don’t overlook very tiny streams, those of 4-foot width and less. Almost all small, wild brookies. I don’t normally eat trout but these small fish are a rare exception. They are wonderful. And, if you can find a beaver dam or two on such a stream, there’s a good chance you will find some big brookies. Larry Weeks of Deadwood took me to such a place a few years ago and took enough turns to hopelessly confuse me to the point I could never return. Neither of us caught a fish but we saw several brook trout that would weigh more than 6 pounds. Larry told me he’s released several potential state records.
There’s much to do in this area. The scenery is fabulous, especially in the Deerfield Lake area, and no matter how many times you’ve seen it, Mt. Rushmore is always an inspiring sight. So is a drive down the Needles Highway or a trip through Custer State Park or Wind Cave National Park. Both are largely free of the crass commercialism that pervades much of this otherwise wonderful area. The downside is where to stay. Motels, resorts, lodges, etc., seem to operate under the theory of “get’em while you can,” and room rates are what you’d expect to pay in a large metropolitan area for accommodations that are often sub-par. I haven’t found a really good restaurant, so if you want to eat good, fix it yourself.
Dream Trip #8
Leech Lake in Minnesota provides as good a chance as you’ll get at catching a big muskie. I’ve fished it at least a half-dozen times with Al Maas, and most recently, with Jack Shriver Jr. Jack caught a released a 53-inch muskie on our trip there last August. In two mornings, we saw about 10 fish each day.
I remember the time Al and I fished Leech on a perfect “muskie” day. There were lots of rain squalls moving across that portion of Minnesota, and each time one was headed our way, Al would say, “Reel in, we’re going to a spot.” Minutes later, we’d cast and either hook a fish or at least see a big fish follow our baits. I think we boated a half-dozen fish that day. I don’t know what it is about weather changes but they certainly seem to trigger muskies. Course, it helps greatly if you’re fishing with a guy like Al, who knows the address of most Leech Lake muskies. Yes, and you will experience the “follow,” a habit muskies frequently exhibit. Tell ya friends, when you look down and see a fish over 4-feet-long following your bait, it’s snout an inch or so behind it, it does cause your knees to knock a bit. It’s a maddening thing, really, because though I’ve fished muskies for 20 years, I’ve never been able to turn a follower into a biter, all that figure 8 stuff aside. Oh, I’ve seen it happen, but never to me. Lodging rates are reasonable in the Walker, MN area, and in addition to muskies, Leech also offers fine bass fishing.
There’s a restaurant between Walker and Park Rapids called “The Wild Goose Inn,” where the food is exceptional. Lots of game on the menu including elk. Unfortunately, the night I was there, the owner was launching continual tirades against his employees. The chew-out language was loud and foul. We weren’t impressed and most patrons seemed uneasy. In spite of the good food, I doubt I’ll return.
Dream Trip #9
The south central part of North Dakota may currently provide the best pike fishing in the United States. Ironically, most of these are “new” lakes, formed during the high runoff of the 1990’s. There are many such lakes scattered across the area around south central North Dakota communities such as Napoleon, Ashley and Wishek. Another good pike bet is Horsehead Lake a bit farther north of I-94. In fact, I’d bet that many more lakes in that area are hosting good pike populations but haven’t seen a fisherman.
The downside is that few of these “new” lakes have boat ramps, which makes a strong case for investing in a canoe or car-toppable boat. I have a kickboat that works well, though prairie winds sometimes make things difficult. However, my trout fishing buddies from North Dakota have solved that problem by installing electric motors on their kickboats. Tie on a spinnerbait and cast. That’s all you’ll have to do, honest. The new lakes are fertile and they are currently growing some very big fish.
Dream Trip #10
If the Big Horn River in south central Montana isn’t the best trout stream in America, it’s certainly near the top. They say there are 5,000 trout per mile in this river that frankly, doesn’t look like a Montana trout stream. Truth is, it wasn’t until the Yellowtail Dam was constructed just above Fort Smith, MT. It’s a tailwater stream that sucks cold, clear water from the bottom of the reservoir, and like all rivers, fishes best at a low to moderate flow.
It holds rainbows and browns, all wild fish, with the former often running large enough to measure them by pounds, not inches. The browns will run anywhere from 12 to 24 inches. A fish of about 16 to 17-inches seems about average.
If there’s a downside, it’s that you will need a guide. The Big Horn flows through the Crow Creek Indian Reservation and if you step outside the high water mark, you’re trespassing. Thus, there aren’t many places where you can drive up to the river and fish. On the other hand, especially if you’re a beginner, a competent guide can teach you enough to have you catching fish within minutes. Frank Johnson and Kip Dean who guide out of the Big Horn Trout Shop at Fort Smith, are two of the best.
Lodging will run about $75 per night, a guide, about $250 plus tip for two anglers per day. You’ll fish out of a McKenzie style drift boat, but pull in to shore to fish deep runs with nymphs and occasionally, dry flies when a hatch is occurring. Nymphing isn’t that hard to learn because it consists of watching a piece of yarn treated with floatant (strike indicator) with tiny split shot and a nymph tied on at the end. It will seem an awfully lot like fishing live bait under a bobber in moving water. But, call that floating yarn and bobber and your guide will quickly remind you that it’s not a bobber, it’s a strike indicator. Funny, but it works just like a bobber. See it twitch, go under or just pause for a moment as it drifts and you raise the rod tip. Many times, you’ll be tied to a hard fighting trout. Ironically, the rainbows here go on sizzling runs while the browns frequently provide an aerial battle.
The food at the Big Horn Trout Shop in Fort Smith is first rate as it also is at a rather plain looking restaurant across the street, Polly’s.
Dream Trip #11
Nebraska’s Sandhills harbor some excellent fisheries including the lakes on the Valentine National Wildlife Refuge and Merritt Reservoir.
The latter covers about 2,500 acres and offers some great walleye fishing plus pike, muskies, large and smallmouth bass, white bass, crappies and bluegills. This lake has produced the biggest walleyes I’ve caught anywhere. However, it’s not an easy lake to fish. The drop offs are almost vertical and lined with trees and brush. It’s a very pretty lake with white sand beaches. I admit to having a love affair with the Nebraska Sandhills.
The lakes on the nearby Valentine National Wildlife Refuge offer first rate fishing for bass, bluegills, perch, hybrid muskies and northern pike. Pelican Lake offers an honest shot at a 2-pound bluegill, though the numbers are off from the previous decade. It also grows some huge bass and northern pike. I’ve taken largemouths in the 6-pound range while ice fishing as well as a pike that weighed about 15 pounds.
The restaurant at Merritt Trading Post is excellent and the smoked pork chops are something to remember.
Dream Trip 12
Lake Superior at Duluth, MN offers a shot at anything from walleyes, bass and muskies to such coldwater battlers as chinooks, Atlantic salmon, Kamploops rainbows and lake trout.
If ever a fishery could qualify as a poster lake for the Clean Water Act, the St. Louis arm of Lake Superior would be at the top of my list. I can remember when this area was so fouled by taconite tailings as well as a host of industrial waste, that you wouldn’t even want your boat to come into contact with that water.
But that’s history and once the cleanup began, the fishing improved. Butch Furtman, a longtime friend who hosts a TV show there, tells me the walleye fishing is so fast that at times, it’s almost a fish on every cast. Dave Zentner, another close friend who lives in Duluth, loves fishing small trout streams in the area but also says the fishing for “loopers,” the Kamloops strain of rainbows, can be superb near the river tributaries during cold water periods.
And, if you like good food, you’ll love Duluth. Lots of great restaurants and the prettiest downtown area in the upper midwest. Try Blackwoods for a great meal.
