The Hungarian or Gray Partridge is an imported game bird that will test your wingshooting skills.
Partridge aren’t found everywhere so whenever you’re lucky enough to bag one, you’ve got the makings of a great meal. Alberta has perhaps the best “Hun” populations on the continent today but they’ve always been found in good numbers in Montana, the Dakotas, and Montana until the advent of the Conservation Reserve Program. It might sound odd, and even the best upland biologists aren’t sure, but they suspect partridge don’t do well when there’s a lot of grass on the landscape.
They usually hang in covies and if you break a covey, watch where they go. A pointing dog will hold these little speedsters very well.
I got lucky one afternoon while hunting pheasants this past fall on the Thomas Ranch east of Onida, SD and bagged several Huns. And here’s how Chef Mark Mancuso prepared them for me at La Minestra, a great downtown Pierre, SD eatery.
INGREDIENTS
1 Hungarian Partridge ground sage 1 tbsp butter salt and pepper to taste 4 slices bacon 1 large yellow onion olive oil 2 ounces brandy
PREPARATION
Chef Mark began by “trussing” the bird, nothing more actually, than binding the legs tight against the body, a method that aids in even cooking.
Rub the bird inside and out with fresh ground sage and place a tablespoon of butter inside the bird to keep it moist. Salt and pepper to taste and then wrap the bird with bacon. Place it in a 350 degree oven for about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare carmelized onions. This is a snap and a wonderful, sweet-tasting compliment to the partridge. Slice a large yellow onion into fairly thin slices leaving the yellow skin on. Add a bit of olive oil to a hot pan and begin to cook the onions. The goal is to cook them until they darken and carmelize. When the onions have turned dark, add 2 ounces of brandy and tilt the pan. The brandy will flame up and burn out quickly but it adds a wonderful flavor to the onions.
Serve the bird with the onions and freshly boiled baby red potatoes.
This meal goes great with your choice of a light red zinfandel or a darker shiraz.
